RV generator selection comes down to three questions: How many AC units do you need to run, what amperage is your RV's shore power connection (30-amp or 50-amp), and how quiet does the generator need to be? Get those three right and the model picks itself.
The amperage and AC math
A 30-amp RV has a single shore-power feed limited to 3,600 watts of simultaneous load (30A × 120V). Most have one rooftop AC, typically 13,500 BTU, drawing 1,400 to 1,700 watts continuously with a 2,800 to 3,500 watt starting surge. Add a fridge cycling, lights, a TV, and a phone charger and you're at 1,800 to 2,200 watts continuous — but the AC startup surge is the sizing driver.
A 50-amp RV has two 50A × 120V legs for 12,000 watts of simultaneous capacity. Typically two rooftop AC units plus a more substantial appliance suite. Generator sizing jumps to the 7,500 to 11,000W class.
| RV setup | Required wattage | Typical generator class |
|---|---|---|
| 30A coach, one 13,500 BTU AC | 3,000W minimum, 4,000W comfortable | 2× 2,200W inverter (paralleled) or 1× 3,500W–5,000W inverter |
| 30A coach, one 15,000 BTU AC | 3,500W minimum, 4,500W comfortable | 3,500W or 5,000W inverter |
| 50A coach, two 13,500 BTU ACs | 5,500W minimum, 7,500W comfortable | 5,500W–8,500W class |
| 50A coach, larger appliance suite | 9,000W+ | 9,000–12,500W class |
The picks
Honda EU2200i Companion (paired)
What it does well: Two EU2200i (or EU2200i + EU2200i Companion) paralleled deliver 4,400 starting / 3,600 running watts — enough to run a 13,500 BTU rooftop AC plus a fridge plus a microwave (briefly). 48 dBA at quarter load on each unit means whisper-quiet operation when only one is running. Honda's reliability and dealer network make this the recreational benchmark.
The trade-off: Substantial cost — two Honda units plus parallel cable. Two 47-pound carries instead of one larger generator.
Westinghouse iGen4500DFc
What it does well: 3,700 running / 4,500 starting watts in a closed inverter case. Remote electric start with key fob — useful from inside the RV. TT-30R (30-amp RV-ready) outlet, dual-fuel, USB ports. 52 dBA at quarter load — quiet enough for the better campgrounds.
The trade-off: ~100 pounds, single-unit means no redundancy. If it fails, you're without power.
Champion 3400W Dual Fuel Inverter (RV-Ready)
What it does well: 3,100 running / 3,400 starting on gas. RV-ready 30A outlet built in. Dual-fuel with up to 14+ hour runtime on a 20-lb propane tank. Electric start, parallel capable, CO Shield. Inverter-clean power for RV electronics.
The trade-off: Tight on a 13,500 BTU AC with anything else running. A soft-start kit on the AC makes this size much more usable. 95 lbs.
Westinghouse iGen5000DFc / WGen5300DFc
What it does well: 3,900–4,000 running / 5,000 peak watts in an inverter case at 52 dBA at quarter load. Plenty of capacity for AC plus fridge plus microwave plus laptop charging without coming close to the limit. RV-ready 30A outlet, remote start, dual-fuel.
The trade-off: Step up in weight and price from the 3,500W class. For a 30-amp RV the extra capacity often goes unused.
Champion 8500W (for 50-amp RVs)
What it does well: 7,500 running / 9,375 starting watts — capacity for two rooftop AC units running simultaneously on a 50-amp RV. NEMA 14-50R 50-amp outlet for direct connection. Electric start, three-year warranty with Champion's lifetime tech support.
The trade-off: Open-frame, 200+ lbs, and loud. 50-amp RV users with quiet preferences should look at the iGen11000 inverter class instead.
The soft-start kit trick
A soft-start kit (typically Micro-Air's EasyStart for RVs) wired into your rooftop AC's compressor reduces the inrush current by 50 to 70 percent. With a soft-start installed, a 13,500 BTU AC that normally needs 3,500W to start can be started by a 2,200W Honda EU2200i — by itself, without parallel. This is the single best upgrade for anyone running an RV on a smaller generator. Installation is a one-hour job for a competent technician.
Why so many RVers run two paralleled 2,200W units
The two-Honda setup has real advantages over a single 4,500W generator:
- Quieter when AC isn't needed. Run one unit at quarter load for lights and electronics; whisper-quiet.
- Redundancy. If one unit fails, you still have power.
- Easier to transport. Two 47-pound carries instead of one 100-pound carry.
- Resale value. Two Honda EU2200is retain value better than most 4,500W units.
The trade-off is upfront cost and storage space (two cases vs one).
Generator placement and the campsite
- Run the generator at least 20 feet from the RV, with the exhaust pointed away from windows and AC intake.
- Use rubber feet or a mat to reduce vibration noise transmitted through pavement.
- Most campground generator hours are 8am–10am and 4pm–8pm. Plan AC operation around them.
- A CPAP machine through the night is universally allowed and uses 30 to 60 watts — any inverter handles this with engine at idle.
Cross-link to our RV gear network
For the rest of your RV setup — surge protectors, water filters, leveling systems, propane systems — see our RV gear guides. Generator integration is one piece of a larger RV electrical system; surge protection and proper transfer switching are the next conversation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size generator do I need for my 30-amp RV?
If you want to run your rooftop AC plus essentials, 3,000 to 4,000 running watts is the standard recommendation. A 2,200W inverter is too small unless you've added a soft-start kit to the AC. Two paralleled 2,200W units (combined 3,600W running) is the most popular setup for 30-amp coaches.
Can a Honda EU2200i run an RV air conditioner?
By itself, not reliably — the typical 13,500 BTU AC needs about 3,000 starting watts and the EU2200i provides 2,200. Two EU2200is paralleled provide 4,400 starting watts and can comfortably run the AC. Alternatively, install a soft-start kit on the AC and a single EU2200i can run it.
What's the difference between a built-in RV generator and a portable?
Built-in generators (Onan, Cummins) are mounted in the RV's generator bay, fed from the RV's fuel tank, and started from a panel switch inside. They're convenient but expensive, heavier, and harder to repair. Portable generators are cheaper, more flexible, can be used outside RV trips, and don't take up generator bay space — but you set them up at each stop.
Can I plug a 30-amp RV directly into a portable generator?
Yes if the generator has a TT-30R outlet (30-amp RV-ready). Use the generator's TT-30R outlet with the RV's standard 30-amp cord. If the generator only has standard 120V household outlets, you'll need an adapter — but make sure the generator's continuous output supports the load.
Do RV generators need a surge protector?
Yes — an EMS (electrical management system) or surge protector between the generator and the RV protects the RV's converter/charger, AC compressors, and electronics from over-voltage, under-voltage, miswired outlets, and surges. Progressive Industries and Hughes Autoformers are the standard names.